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David Sylvian at "La Cigale" (The world is everything tour)

David Sylvian at "La Cigale" (The world is everything tour)


Mr David Sylvian in Paris: yesterday evening at the Cigale. The Cigale is one of the oldest concert venues in Paris, perhaps a hundred years old now. Full of wrought iron railings, red seats. Perhaps a little dark. The last time I saw Mr. Sylvian in concert was at the Teatro Manzoni in Bologna. Bologna being the incredibly dense and compact place that it is, I didn’t know that this venue even existed, a short few metres from my house on the other side of the Via Independenzia, until the concert. Watching the soundcheck through an open backstage door, in the middle of a Saturday afternoon, I imagined that Mr. Sylvian might be nearby, perhaps sipping an espresso at the Caffe Impero or any one of the other myriad bars in the centre of Bologna.

Last night’s concert was very different from that of Bologna in 2003. Back then, Mr. Sylvian appeared on stage with only one other musician, his brother and drummer Steve Jansen; behind them, a swirling procession of images crossed the walls thanks to the visual artist Masakatsu Takagi, which lent one believe that one might almost understand what each song was really about. On stage, the sound was raw and spiky, full of static and clicks, with Derek Bailey’s er — difficult — guitar improvisations providing backdrop for many of the songs. Mr. Sylvian’s voice lent an incredible contrast to these difficult textures and made them bearable. There was some terrible story to tell here, and Mr. Sylvian played all the songs from Blemish in the exact same order as on the CD so that in the end we understood.

Yesterday evening we had left some of this difficult terrain behind. Sylvian was on stage with several other musicians to present work from his most recent studio album, “Snow Borne Sorrow”. I was curious to see how this would work: I had read in interviews that each track was assembled in the dead of night using Pro Tools and that most of the musicians had never actually played together before. And the sound was so intricately, flawlessly engineered, there was a certain perfect crystalline form to it, yes, like a snowflake. How could this be reproduced in concert?

In the end, perhaps I should not have been too concerned. After the first initial shock of hearing Mr. Sylvian’s voice once more, always fuller and more resonant than it could ever sound on the little loudspeakers in my apartment, I realised that of course each composition was strong enough to exist by itself, out in the world. After all, as Mr. Sylvian explained in interviews, many of these songs had come into existence in the cold New England mid-winter: a mild September evening in Paris could hardly be so threatening. The depth and emotion in the new songs are astonishing; they stand up very well against the rest of Mr. Sylvian’s work. They are as good as anything he has written, even back to the legendary “Secrets of the beehive”.

Mr. Sylvian’s fellow musicians made it easy to shape the older songs into a jazz idom, which worked very well for some (“Ghosts”, for example) and less well for others (in “Fire in the Forest” I thought the buzzing electronics were a bit too far back in the mix for my liking). But still a wonderful evening, Mr. Sylvian’s beautiful voice and thoughtful lyrics were as captivating as ever. Mr. Sylvian has created a very interesting and unique corner for himself in modern music, in a strange land somewhere between pop and jazz and new music and surrounded himself with extremely talented and inventive performers; two of the most moving tracks of the evening were written by a fellow musicians from his Samadhi sound label. I’m looking forward to the next installment already, in the shape of brother Steve Jansen’s forthcoming “Slope” album.
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On the other side of the "Great firewall of China"

On the other side of the "Great firewall of China"

I’m back in Paris now. I have been back for a week now. At last I can actually see the posts I wrote whilst in China. Although I was able to upload my posts from Beijing and Xining I could not actually to see them – blogspot.com is blocked, as well as a few other sites. Their filtering mechanism is quite sophisticated: some sites just time out (like bbcnews.com), whilst for others (like the wikipedia page on ‘Lhasa’ for instance) one is presented with a brutal ‘network connection lost’.

But total control of information is a Chinese speciality. We visited the site of Ganden monastery on the last day of our organised tour. The chinese tour guide reluctantly admitted that the monastery was ‘slightly’ damaged during the Cultural revolution; while he told us this I was reading in my Guide routard that they had blocked the exit roads of the monastery with tanks, bombarded the buildings with cannons and aeroplanes, and machine-gunned any monks trying to escape. Hm! A slight discrepancy. When I asked our tour guide, “So, this place is full of Tibetan separatists is it?” he replied cooly, “You will have to ask the chinese government that”.

In my second to last day I actually met a plain-clothes monk, a friendly man on his way to Nepal who wrote for me in my notebook in Tibetan, “I like tibetan tea” (he spoke quite good English). On my last day in Lhasa I made an epic hike into the hills around the city and visited two remote monasteries. The people I met were very friendly, even thought we had very few words in common. At the second, I showed the words written for me in my notebook, and bam! I didn’t get out of there until I had drunk at least four our five cups of yak butter tea! Yum! I confess I like the stuff, but after four cups I started to feel a little queasy. The descent down to Lhasa however, in the clear mountain area, soon calmed my stomach.

Some of my photographs of my trip to Tibet are here.
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My last days in Lhasa…

My last days in Lhasa…

I left Lhasa this morning. In the street outside my room, the hotel porter traced in sooty water droplets on the cab roof how much it would cost me to get to the airport. OK! And then we were speeding off through the rainy streets of Lhasa, past the imposing bulk of the Potala, down broad avenues and out into the countryside.

It wasn’t clear to me where one could construct an airport in Tibet; there are so many steep ravines and mountains. After an almost hour of speeding down narrow roads snaking past valleys and mountains it was still not clear just where exactly the airport was hidden. Then suddenly we passed into a long tunnel drilled through the hillside, over a bridge and then another bridge and the airport was there. More incredible Chinese feats of civil engineering. A few hours later, as the aeroplane pulled very steeply away from the runway, I could see we were flying along a vast flood plain. Lakes and rivers far below glittered in the oblique morning light. Steep mountains crowded the cabin windows on each side of the aeroplane. In another half an hour or so, the Tibetan plateau had vanished beneath the clouds.

But returning to Lhasa: once we were free from our Chinese tour guide, I had three days to explore the city. As I said, I changed hotel to one in the centre of the old Tibetan town, and not the new Chinese city, which is utterly without interest. Although our tour guide had warned us about ‘tall handsome Tibetan men’ as they were apparently the most dangerous and avaricious, I was not frightened! I spent the good part of two afternoons walking around the narrow streets and looking into the shops, visiting the occasional temple.

Of course the main feature of Lhasa is the barkour, a series of concentric circles pilgrims make around the city’s most important temple. A great mass of people circles around and around, ebbing and flowing throughout day’s passage. Most of these are pilgrims, old faces tanned to a deep, heavily wrinkled brown by the plateau’s harsh ultraviolet radiation, twirling prayer wheels in one hand and counting beads in the other. Softly chanting under their breath. The women wear long skirts patterned with the traditional Tibetan colours, often with white cloth hats to protect against the sun’s rays. The men are dressed in dark suits. There is not the slightest hint of modernity, there is no location in time. If I were to fade to monochrome the pictures I made and airbrush away the tourists, they could have been taken at any time this century. The churning crowd at times is enveloped by blue clouds of burning incense. Most of these pilgrims are old, but the monks in their red robes seemed to be much younger. I imagined that this is what it must have been like in the crypt of St. Denis in the middle ages, when the relentless and unending flux of the faithful led Abbe Suger to invent gothic architecture…

Everything in the city centres around the barkour, from the countless souvenir stands which line its route to the markets in the streets around. Nearby, I found a shop specialising in prayer wheels. A small weight is attached to a metal cylinder mounted on a wooden pole. Inside the cylinder, prayers are written on a tightly coiled spiral of paper. A slight circular motion of the hand is enough to spin the wheel and prayers are emitted towards heaven. Modifications on demand! When I passed the shop, pilgrims were crowded around the owner who was shortening one prayer wheel whose pole was slightly too long.

Towards the periphery, the streets become slightly more frayed, the pavements more uneven, the buildings slightly less well maintained. Streets too narrow for any kind of motorised vehicle. One can see all manner of things. On the ground here, the bloodied carcass of a yak, for sale; against a building over there, monks chanting in prayer. And asking for money! I suspected that there not real monks. A faint whiff of unpurified sewage hanging in the air. In the markets, every imaginable type of produce is offered, many of them unidentifiable to western eyes. I suppose all of this is what the streets of European cities might have been like a hundred, two hundred years ago.
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In Lhasa

In Lhasa

I am in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet. I’ve been here for four or five days, and in two further days I will leave to return to Beijing, and then to Paris on Sunday. It’s now two weeks since I left home.

I’ve changed my hotel room. I came here on a guided tour organised as part of the conference I attended in Xining, and that tour finished a day or so ago. In in the space of three days I saw an incredible amount of sights, but now at last I have time to absorb it all before I head west. Our tour company organised things efficiently for us but, alas, without almost any sense of aesthetics. We were booked into a clean, modern Chinese hotel in the new part of Lhasa. All our needs were catered to. Our guide was slightly incredulous that we had no interest in eating (Chinese food) in the hotel’s (almost) subterranean dining room facing the parking lot when we could be wandering the ancient streets of Lhasa and eating momo and drinking yak butter tea.

My new hotel is infinitely preferable to my older one. I am in the centre of town on almost the last floor. It is a damp morning, like most mornings here, and the mountains surrounding the town are wreathed in cloud. A fine misty rain is falling. Heavy storms rolled over the city last night and this morning, which is a little hard to imagine, as we are already at an altitude of 3,400m. From my hotel window I see a chaotic jumble of rooftops, slightly strange here for Lhasa as almost all the buildings have flat roofs and are almost all the same height. My small hotel room is filled with intricately patterned traditional Tibetan wooden furniture, which is a great relief after weeks of anonymous Chinese hotels.

One metre across the narrow street I see a rooftop garden with dozens of flowers in pots. An elderly lady emerged only a few minutes ago to water them. On a old iron drum nearby there is a blue thermos which I know is probably full of Yak butter tea. A few meters further to left to the left I see many coloured cloths tied to a pole high on the roof. These are prayer flags, each scrap of cloth contains incantation after incantation, lines and lines of prayer. The closer to the sky these prayer flags are, the more powerful they are. The mountains around Lhasa (some of which reach more than 4,000m) are covered in them. The air is full of the sounds of horns and bells, Lhasa’s chaotic traffic. The street where my hotel lies is a market street, full of every imaginable kind of produce. There are people there until late into the night.

This is where I am; in the next day or two I will try to recount where I have been.

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